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The Call of the Horn
We (Steve Westlake, Patrik Lundin) are nine days into our cross-Switzerland trip using train travel to drop us at some high-class ski venues!
For the first time we glimpse the Matterhorn on the horizon, but before we get to Zermatt, we’re heading to the little known resort of Bettmeralp.
The story so far:
- St Moritz: Fantastic skiing, amazing views, posh as anything
- Davos: Zero vis, broken rib, great hospital
- Disentis: Friendly and fun freeride heaven, we have to steal our own kit back
- Andermatt: All the potential in the world, but not quite enough snow…
- Bettmeralp… read on
- Zermatt
All pics by Patrik Lundin. www.patriklundin.com
We reluctantly leave lovely Andermatt behind, vowing to return when it dumps. As the train snakes through the Swiss Alps we blag our way into the cockpit (bridge?) and have a chat with the driver. I’m half surprised that we’re allowed up front, but with a maximum speed of 40mph and tracks guiding us safely away from the top of any skyscapers, I suppose there’s no need for airline levels of security.
Patrik helpfully indicates the direction of travel. Not quite sure what the steering wheel is for…
Head to the top of Bettmerhorn in Bettermalp and you get to ski through a tunnel…
… and then find some untouched snow. Maybe because Bettmeralp is a family-biased resort and doesn’t boast an abundance of extreme skiing, we found plenty of reasonable off-piste action even after a couple of weeks of no snow.
This pistes are in good shape too - though a combination of a high resort and mountains topping out at 3000m means that if you bomb down from the top, you’re at the bottom pretty quickly.
See what they’ve done there?
Patrik does one day on skis but looks pretty happy when he takes them back. He’s far happier dicking around on a board, and taking brilliant pictures…
… of food. In the Hotel Garni Sporting the proprietor was fantastically happy and welcoming, with bonhomie oozing from every Swiss pore. She did a demon Raclette too, so we scoffed about six plates each before realising (the next day at check-out) that we were being charged by the plate. That made her smile too. Cheese Nightmare.
Oh well, we’ll give it a go anyway…
Amazing Glace…ier. The magnificent Aletsch Glacier is (at around 23km) the longest in the Alps, but you can’t ski on it thanks to it boasting UNESCO World Heritage site status. Damn those pesky conservationists.
Worth another look. It moves at about 200 meters per year (coincidentally, the pace of my skiing) which allowed photographer Patrik to just about get a few sharp pictures as it flashed past.
See those people dragging cases up hill to their hotel? That’s par for the course in Bettmeralp because it’s 2000 metres up the side of a mountain and the only way to get there in winter is by cablecar. Totally charming, family friendly, and even better if your chalet’s got a snowmobile to bomb around on.
After two days, which also take in the linked Fiederalp and Reideralp resorts, we’re on our way again. Destination Matterhorn and Zermatt…